Food reviews

Green

The Knaypa

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Above: Downstairs at The Knaypa

I once heard a chef comment that the British are lucky, because our national cuisine is so bland we are more than happy to incorporate dishes from all four corners of the globe.This may be true in terms of Indian, Chinese and Thai food, but have you ever thought about dining in a Polish restaurant? No, me neither. OK, it may not have the same exotic ring to it as its counterparts, but if you dismiss the stereotypical image of it being merely meat and two veg then look no further than The Knaypa restaurant.

The Knaypa offers a mix of traditional Polish cuisine coupled with modern European cooking. The menu, has everything from roast venison and pan-fried sea bass though to dumplings stuffed with vegetables. I opted for duck breast served with red cabbage, potatoes and a cranberry sauce and finished with the baked cheesecake, one of my favourites, which certainly didn’t disappoint.

I’ve been lucky enough to dine in some of the capitals finest restaurants, yet I have never spent so much time looking at the interior. Not because it was awe inspiring, its just I found myself sitting in a restaurant which was a bit different, and a bit, well, sexy really. High-back red leather chairs, black tables and an abundance of mirrors were certainly a contributing factor along with the ceiling, that must have being designed by a Gaudi enthusiast.

Our table was upstairs, but there was a steady flow of people heading downstairs, so much so that I couldn’t resist a peak. It surprised me to see a contrasting area, more rustic, more wooden, and in a way more intimate. It offered a traditional slice of Poland and seemed to attract the local Polish community who were all having a good time. If we hadn’t had an early start the next day then maybe we would have joined them. Oh well there’s always next time... l

268 King Street W6 0SP, 020 8563 2887 www.theknaypa.co.uk

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